Physiologically speaking, however…..

“Physiological adaptations in response to physical training are highly specific to the nature of the training activity. Furthermore, the more specific the training program is to a given sport or activity, the greater the improvement in performance in that sport or activity.” - J.H. Wilmore, D.L. Costill, W.L. Kenney

Hmm….ok then, so if the body adapts very specifically to the type of training performed wouldn’t it then follow that “cross training” is mostly a waste of time? Shouldn’t runners just run, cyclists just bike, swimmers just swim, triathletes just swim, bike, run and so on? The short answer:  Yes. The long answer: mostly, if they are getting closer to a peak event or if time is limited but not really, if they are in their off-season or early base training period or when recovering from an injury that prevents or limits training in their primary sport.

So, where does cross training fit in your training plan? Or should it? Well, like the answer to many (most) training questions, how it can and should fit is very individual and depends on a lot of factors.

If we look at a typical training progression, early season or “base training” should be fairly general, late season or “pre-competition training” should be more specific. In this context, particularly during the winter months, when training in your primary sport might be limited or require indoor vs. outdoor training, cross training can be a huge asset and great alternative. Any activity that has an aerobic component is fair game when it comes to building your training base. I.e, more volume, more volume, more volume….. In the spring and summer when the important races are looming in your headlights, cross training should be considered a bit more carefully and judiciously.

Training in a variety of activities that develop the aerobic system or build strength can allow for a much needed break from the “same old, same old” while still moving you toward your goal.   There are so many options when it comes to ‘cross training’. Swimming, deep water running, in-line skating, cycling, mountain biking, rock climbing are among the many possibilities. Play with your kids! Soccer, tennis, kick ball, “catch”, etc. etc.  Cross country skiing, snowshoeing and even shoveling snow are great ways to be outside – either as a supplement to or in place of running or cycling indoor.   All are good options.  As they say, variety is the spice of life.   A recent Facebook discussion brought up the question of whether shoveling snow could actually be considered a “workout”.   I can say, without question, I have made shoveling snow a strength/core workout and at other times an endurance workout – either way, always worthy of entry in my training log!

Ok, ok, fair enough but, seriously, I’m a serious competitor, what about when it’s crunch time and I need to get ready to race and peak for my event(s)?   It is absolutely true that the best workouts are the ones that are most specific to the demands of the event for which you are training.    If I am training to compete in a 5k run, workouts with efforts at 5k goal pace are the highest priority as I get closer to the race. However, that doesn’t mean I won’t continue to include a longer run and other runs at slower paces in my routine.   It’s all about a shift of focus and emphasis.  Likewise, while cross training may not be a top priority when training for a specific sport or event, it can still have a place in your repertoire.  Let’s say you are a runner and just happen to have in excess of 10 hours per week to devote to training.   Not unreasonable for most of us.   Unless you have been building up to it and/or have superior genetics and biomechanics, it is highly unlikely that running that many hours per week, week in, week out is going to be kind to your body.  However, the cumulative of effect of maintaining that volume of aerobic training stimulus will only help, especially if it promotes faster recovery from the more specific training that you do.   If time is limited and it’s already hard enough to get in enough training in your primary sport, then, no, cross training is probably not the best idea.

There are a few things you need to keep in mind when approaching cross training – whether it’s during the general phase or specific phase of your training season.  Because your fitness level really is very sport-specific, approach ANY new activities with caution.  Don’t think that just because you are a super fit cyclist that you are ready to go out and run for any prolonged length of time.   I’ve seen more than a few very competitive cyclists wreck themselves for several weeks by going out for “just a 5 mile run”.   Limit any “first” workout in any new activity to about 15-25 minutes or less and keep it really easy. While, ultimately, cross training can be a great way to add volume to your training week, initially it is better to substitute rather than add a workout or two with new cross training efforts until some adaptation to the new stimulus has taken place. As you do get closer to your competitive season, it is not necessary to eliminate your cross training efforts but it is important to avoid any cross training sessions that compromise any of your key sport specific workouts.

What about days “off”?  Is it better to rest or train easily or cross train when your muscles are too sore for specific training?  In most cases, easy activity that promotes blood flow and avoids causing further trauma or breakdown to muscle tissue is better than complete rest and will enhance recovery.  That’s not to say there isn’t a time and place for a complete rest day. If you are sick with a fever or you have an injury or what feels like the beginning of an injury, taking a day or two completely off is likely to help more than it will hurt. Never be afraid to take a day off. When I was training and competing full time, I found I needed a regularly scheduled rest day – at times it was weekly – at others it was every few weeks – it was as much a need for a mental break as it was a physical break.  Now, because training time is much more limited, I find almost never take a complete rest day.   Easy exercise feels much better than no exercise.   Again, it’s all about a shift of focus and emphasis.

What does everyone want to do when they ride their bike? GO FAST!!! It’s doesn’t get any simpler than that. However, when we ride our bikes we have all kinds of forces working against us and they SLOW US DOWN. The more forces working against us, the more POWER we need to generate to GO FAST! That’s really the best way to think of power (if you are just chomping at the bit for a more technical discussion and equations and stuff go to the end of this article for some links to just that) How can we generate more power? One way is to get stronger and push bigger gears. Other ways include pedaling faster and getting in better shape. Or, my favorite – do all of the above. Do any of these things and you will ride faster. Of course, generating lots of power is not the absolute bottom line when it comes to riding faster – aerodynamics, weight, weather, road surface and other forces that work against a rider can always be minimized (I like to think of all that stuff as FREE SPEED and you will have to wait for future article on that). For now, let’s talk about training and the EARNED SPEED which comes from increased power output.

There are many training methods and philosophies and there a many ways to measure intensity when you ride. You can simply watch that cycle computer and see your speed. Unfortunately, speed is subject to all of those pesky forces working against you and so it becomes a fairly unreliable measure of training intensity (hey, I can ride 30 mph on my rollers but it’s not all that hard) unless you are riding under very controlled conditions. You can train by your own sense of perceived exertion. Many experienced athletes train this way very effectively and will continue to laugh at the idea of doing anything but getting on the bike and riding that thing until you have to puke. (I must admit to occasionally falling into this category, myself). At the very least, I believe perceived effort should always be part of the training intensity equation. However, used exclusively and by itself, it leaves a lot of room for errors in training. I have found that most athletes, when left to their own sense of perceived effort, tend to train too hard when they should be going easy and not hard enough when they should be going hard. You can train using heart rate as your measure of intensity and I am guessing that most of you reading this article do just that. Still, heart rate training has it’s own set of limitations. Heart rate always lags behind your actual intensity. It takes a solid 3-5 minutes before heart rates reach a steady state level that matches your effort level. Because of this, heart rate is not very practical for measuring the intensity of shorter work bouts, and really the first 2-3 minutes of ANY work bout. Heart rate is also affected by many variables such as heat, hydration, stress, illness to name just a few. Like perceived effort, I do believe heart rate should be incorporated when measuring intensity. It can tell you a lot about your current state of health and fitness. Still, though, for longer steady aerobic training, I find heart rate is still my primary guide for measuring training intensity.

Power, however, is an instant, objective and direct measure of just how hard you are working. Back in ancient times you were and maybe still are asking or are being asked “what’s your heart rate?” These days you may often hear group ride banter with questions like “how many watts are you pushing?” or “what wattage can you maintain for that climb?” You ask, “aren’t watts those things that light up your house?” Yup. “Ok, so, will the rider who can light up the biggest house always be the fastest and win?” Not necessarily – remember FREE SPEED? Somewhat like heart rate, power is unique to each athlete. The more force you have to overcome the more power you need to generate. When you are really light and really aerodynamic and your bike is really clean or you take advantage of any other FREE SPEED available, you will require much less power to travel at the same speed than if you just rely on EARNED SPEED. I have been using power to earn my speed since the early 90′s when I first started using my Velodyne trainer. At first, it was really nothing more than another number to look at while I was training. Over the years, particularly when power measurement became available for riding on the road, I have found it to be extremely valuable when it comes to pacing and starting time trial, interval and hill climbing efforts. Most riders will start any training or racing effort much too “fast” or “hard” without realizing it – they see heart rate low, their perceived effort isn’t very high – yet – so they push, but their power output, if they were measuring it, will typically be much higher than they can maintain for the entire length of that effort. Ultimately, they end up having to slow down to reduce their heart rate and lactate production. I believe that any training at levels higher than basic aerobic endurance training is going to be more effective when using power as the primary guide ro measuring intensity.

There are currently three reliable and relatively accurate systems available to measure power output while riding your own bike on the road or trail – The SRM, the Power-Tap and the Polar S-720i. They all have advantages and disadvantages associated with them and to go over all of that and try to determine which is the “best” has more or less already been done (see http://mywebpage.netscape.com/rechung/wattage/ ) The SRM is generally regarding as the most accurate and most direct measure but also the most expensive. The Power-Tap is nearly as accurate although not quite as “direct” since power is measured at the hub/wheel rather than the crank/bottom bracket (I kind of think this provides a more useful measure, myself, although you will be giving up a few watts to brag about). It sells for a quite a bit less than the SRM. The Polar S-720i, at first glance, seems like it would not be very accurate, but it actually does a pretty good job and it’s only real drawback is the actual set up and calibration process which I know is enough to scare away a number of potential buyers, regardless of the price. A complete system will cost you about the same as the Standard Power-Tap and a bit less than the Power-Tap Pro. I have used the Standard Power-Tap since it first came out and currently use the Power-Tap Pro which has been updated and improved by Saris/CycleOps. I love it and recommend it. I’ll even sell you one if you are interested ;-)

Finally, you ask, “ok, if I go out and buy a power meter for my bike, how do I use it in training?”. If you are familiar with heart rate training zones it won’t be a difficult transition to understanding power training zones. In both cases, the zones are based an athlete’s output or intensity at their lactate threshold. One way to determine lactate threshold is to go visit Doc Dan and undergo a lactate test in the lab. Another way, that may be more convenient but definitely more painful is to perform a 20-30 mile time trial or make an attempt at your own hour record. The power/heart rate/lactate that a cyclist can maintain for ~60 minutes is very very close to the lactate threshold determined by a laboratory test. If you are not in shape for that kind of ride or simply don’t have the stomach for such an effort, I would recommend the lab test. You can always do a shorter distance – maybe 8-12 miles and consider 93-95% of that power to be close enough to your actual threshold. Once you have your number – let’s use 300 Watts as our example – you can determine your other training zones.

AEROBIC (30-360 minutes)
A1 = <75% or <225 Watts (Recovery and Easy rides)
A2 = 75%-85% or 225-255 Watts (Aerobic, Endurance, Long rides)
A3 = 85%-90% or 255-270 Watts (Aerobic Threshold, Tempo, Long races)

LACTATE THRESHOLD OR AEROBIC POWER (20-150 minutes)
AT1 = 92%-95% or 275-285 Watts (Tempo, Longer time trials, sub-threshold training)
AT2 = 95%-98% or 285-295 Watts (threshold training, road races)
AT3 = 98%-103% or 295-310 Watts (time trials, threshold training, long climbs)

VO2 MAX or AEROBIC CAPACITY (3-10 minutes)
VO2 = 103%-125% or 300-375 Watts (shorter time trials, pursuits, VO2 max intervals)

LACTATE TOLERANCE or ANAEROBIC POWER (30-150 seconds)
VLa = 120%+ or >360 Watts

MAX POWER or ANAEROBIC CAPACITY (5-30 seconds)
VLa MAX = all out

For more technical discussions of power and related information try

http://www.analyticcycling.com/

I ride a really cool titanium bicycle. It is not exactly inexpensive. It is extra light. The frame material and design are advanced. However, it is basically a “traditional” bike. Double diamond configuration, two wheels of the same size, even round tubing. Are athletes fast because of the bike they ride or are bikes fast because of the athletes riding them? I think you know the answer. The fastest riders are fast because their bikes FIT and allow them to maximize their biomechanics, power output and aerodynamic position. Certainly, other factors are involved such as talent, confidence, genetics and hey, here’s a thought, TRAINING. Of course, some bikes are better than others. No question about it. Some look cooler. Some handle better. Some are more comfortable. Some are lighter than others. Some are built better. Some will last longer. They say you get what you pay for. As far as quality, materials and design go, that is typically true. More money, however, does not mean faster bikes. The smart money is on a bike that fits well and won’t fall apart. Let’s not lose sight of the primary factor in our quest for speed. The engine.

Fortunately, engines can be tuned up and modified to run more efficiently and generate more power. The speed gained from training far exceeds that gained from an aerodynamic bicycle frame. More training does not mean more health and fitness. The factors determining what the optimal amounts and types of training are for each individual is far beyond the scope of this article. Quality training is the key. Do not mistake quality for “high intensity” or “high mileage”. Quality training is any exercise that serves a specific purpose.

Where does this leave you in your quest for a new bike? Well, I am not going to tell you that buying a new bike is a bad thing to do. In fact, it can be one of the most enjoyable experiences of a triathlete’s or cyclist’s life (well, maybe not, but it can be a highlight of the week , month or year). Avoid falling for any “get fast quick” schemes. Health and fitness should always come first. When you start missing out on a podium place or personal best by a few seconds then train smarter. If you find that your training partner is still beating you by a nose, that new bike could be just what you need. Always make sure that the bike you are buying is available in a size and geometry that will fit your body measurements and the type of riding you will be doing. The best manufacturers offer a wide range of sizes and models that should meet your requirements.

Here are 5 good reasons to buy a new bike:

1. Your current bike does not fit properly and no stem length/saddle position combination will make it fit.
2. Your current bike is worn out, fatigued or no longer safe to ride.
3. You are serious about racing and your current bike weighs more than you do.
4. A new bike is going to motivate you to get out the door and train.
5. You are an adult and your current bike came with coaster brakes and a kick stand.

Here are 5 bad reasons to buy a new bike:

1. You’ve got eleven bikes and you want to make it an even dozen.
2. You don’t want to be shunned when you take your bike to the local pro shop for a tune up.
3. To knock minutes off of your fastest times.
4. Your current bike color does not match the new spring fashions.
5. Your current bike keeps getting dirty and you want a bike to save for races only.

First of all, remember, aero race wheels fall under the category of FREE SPEED (although it’s not really free – some wheel sets might set you back as much as $1500-$2000!!!). Also, realize that even in a best case scenario, the very most aero wheel set might drop 3-4 minutes from your current 40k time trial personal best (but probably more like 1-2 minutes) if you are now using a basic set of box rims with 32-36 spokes. Extrapolate that over the distance of an Ironman bike course and the numbers start to sound very impressive and very much worth every penny invested if you are on the bubble for one of those Kona slots. The faster you already are – the more aero wheels are going to help you – if you currently ride at speeds less than about 17 mph, aero wheels are not going to help as much as if you currently ride 28+ mph.

Without any constraints on budget, you could have a “quiver” of wheels from which to choose for any course or condition you might encounter. With lots of constraints on budget, however, you might be considering a single wheel, or at most, an “all purpose” pair that is sturdy, reliable and can be used on any course in any conditions and possibly even for training as well as racing. One thing to remember is that the front wheel is the most important wheel as far as aerodynamics goes but it is also the most affected by crosswinds.

There are many factors that affect the price you will pay for a specific wheel and there is some basic truth to the saying – you get what you pay for…. It seems to me that weight is probably the single most considered factor when an athlete is purchasing anything bike related and that includes wheels, for sure. But don’t look at weight (or aerodynamics) alone – look at hub design, braking surfaces and structural integrity. Some wheels are virtually bomb proof AND very fast (but not necessarily the lightest) while others are, well, let’s just say not very fast if you have to pull out of the race or stop and wait for a wheel change from neutral support.

How the heck can you possibly decide? You might be thinking, well, why don’t I just look at the wind tunnel test data that many wheel manufacturers provide and see which wheel set, within my budget, is the fastest? Or maybe I should look at what the fastest riders out there are riding. Or maybe I should just pick the ones that match my bike or jersey colors best? Wind tunnel tests are valuable, but there is just so much more to “how fast is this wheel?” than looking at the drag numbers of that wheel spinning all by it’s lonesome, at one speed, without a rider and a bike being part of the equation. The thing is, if you tested every wheel with different bike frames, different riders, different tire sizes and shapes under different wind conditions and at different speeds and you will get A LOT of varying drag numbers that show both good and bad numbers and your decision would become even more incredible.

So, what do we want? A wheel that is light and aero and sturdy and affordable. Simple. What exactly constitutes a wheel being “aero”? The single most effective way to make a wheel aero is to increase the depth of the rim. Generally speaking, the deeper the rim, the more aerodynamic and the faster the wheel – the fastest being the deepest rim of all – a disc wheel. However, the shape of the rim is a critical component. Ideally, this shape of the rim should be oval or elliptical. Note that the only deep section wheels that legally can have that most aero shape are those made by Hed and Zipp since they both hold the patent which was originally Hed’s. In some cases, it may be a marginal difference but technically speaking, the wheels from these two manufacturers should always be faster than a similarly designed wheel (i.e, same rim depth, same number of spokes, etc) made by someone else. That’s not to say that other wheels aren’t fast. There is much debate whether one wheel is faster than another – the Hed 3 wheel and the Nimble crosswind would be one instance. My best guess is that each wheel may be faster than the other in different conditions but the differences are probably not worth obsessing about for very long. Either would be a good choice if that is the type of wheel you are considering. The next way to make a wheel more aero is to reduce the number of spokes. Fewer spokes mean faster and lighter wheels but not without some compromise when it comes to the strength and lateral stiffness of the wheel. To be really fast, rim depth should be between 50-60 mm and spoke count should be between 16 and 24 spokes (or as low as 3 spokes in the case of composite spoke wheels). Hed makes even deeper sectioned rims that are 90 mm and are among the most aerodynamic wheels made – only a disc is faster – but with more rim depth and aerodynamics comes more susceptibility to crosswinds and handling issues, particularly for lighter riders.

Here are the basic categories or types of wheels (with a few examples of each) you should be considering when in the market (these are just examples and tend to be the wheels that I, personally, would consider using but in not is meant to be an exhaustive list or suggest one wheel is “better” than another (awe, who am I kidding? I think Hed wheels are the best and anyone who I’ve ever coached knows it ;-) ):

Semi Deep: 38-44 mm (Hed Jet 40, Zipp 303, Bontrager Race X Lite Carbon, Corima Roues Medium)

Deep: 50-60 mm (Hed Alps, Hed Jet 60, Zipp 404, Corima Roues Aero, Mavic Cosmic Carbone)

Super Deep: 90 mm (Hed Deep)

Composite Spokes: (Hed 3, Nimble Crosswind, Corima Roues 4 Batons, Mavic IO)

Disc Wheels: (Hed, Zipp 909, Bontrager, Mavic Comete)

All right already, what wheels should I get!!!!

If you want to go as absolutely, no doubt about it, fast as you possibly can, get a disc wheel and super deep or composite spoke front wheel. I mean really, what does Lance ride in the tour TT’s? I can tell you, he is not going to ride it unless it’s the fastest option going for the given course or conditions.

If you can only get one set of wheels and you plan to be going to the show in October consider a super deep or composite spoke for the rear and a composite spoke or deep wheel for the front. A pair of Hed 3’s is a super fast and all around do anything set up – or you could keep it simple and go with a pair of 404’s or Alps – you might give up a little in aerodynamics but gain a lot in peace of mind when the winds really begin to howl (my fastest rides in Kona were on twin Hed Cx wheels which were the same type of wheel as these). So basically, a pair of composite spoke wheels or a pair of deep rim wheels or a combination of the two, will provide you with a very fast, very versatile wheel set.

If you are a very light rider (under 120 lbs) and already feel like you get blown around on your regular wheels you should probably avoid a disc, super deep or composite spoke wheel and consider only the deep and/or semi deep rimmed wheels.

Now for a few other little items….should you get tubulars or clinchers?

If the wheels are to be truly “race only” wheels – get tubulars. The wheels are lighter, the tires quicker to change and you won’t be as tempted to train a lot on them because you won’t want to risk flatting that $90 race tire you’ve got on each wheel!

If you really don’t want to deal with gluing tires, however, and you feel you might be training some on your wheels get clinchers.

What size wheels are best?

The size that fits your bike! No, seriously, in almost every case I would lean toward 700c wheels. Only when a rider’s size warrants a smaller wheel sized frame should 650c wheels be considered. I’m not even going to go into the many reasons why someone would or wouldn’t want to disagree with that. Don’t ride a circus bike!!

Whatever wheel you decide to go with – remember, you will always get more speed from training smart and working on your engine but believe me, I know as well as anyone that part of the fun of cycling is all the cool gear and gadgets we have to choose from.

Living on the East Coast and being a cyclist or triathlete, hmmm…. I know many cyclists and triathletes who can’t even begin to grasp the concept. If the weather dips below 60 F, cycling is not going to happen, not outside anyway. Most of us in the Mid-Atlantic region have a much lower cut-off point than that. For me it’s about 10 F, and that just means I may opt to ride off-road in the woods where there is not as much of a wind chill. Oh wait….but that was when training was my job and I could ride in the middle of the day. Strike that. It’s been quite a while since I’ve actually started a ride in full daylight, let alone outdoor. During the winter, you may find yourself in the same predicament, at least during the week. In the cold, potentially icy darkness, cycling outdoor becomes less and less appealing (or sane for that matter).

Think about it. Cycling indoor is much more time efficient. There is no need to waste valuable time putting on layers and layers of clothing. If you only have 20 minutes to ride, you are way more likely to get on the bike indoor than you are outdoor. There is no stopping due to traffic or lights. You can get other things done while riding indoor: reading, studying, music or for those long rides you can watch a movie or your favorites sports games. Cycling indoor is much more controlled. You can more easily monitor your progress and know that you are improving (or not). Most cycling drills are more easily performed on an indoor trainer than outdoor. Cycling indoor is safe (on rollers, that may be arguable). It is said there are two categories of cyclists, those who have crashed and those who will. I know enough cyclists and triathletes who have been severely injured or killed in bicycle accidents that it makes me think twice every time I am about to venture out on the road. If you don’t feel well or are having a bad day you can just stop and get off the bike if you are riding indoor. Cycling indoor can be more social. We all know how much fun cycling can be when riding with others but with a wide range of abilities the training effect of a group ride can vary greatly from one cyclist to another. Indoor you can ride with friends, at your own pace, without worrying about having to keep up with your buddy, the hammer head. Everybody gets the workout they are looking for.

Way back in the early 90′s (when I used to be faster and ride outside in just about any conditions) there were a few of times I was “forced” to ride indoor. Of particular note was during the winter of ’93-’94 when I spent from December through March cycling, almost entirely, on a Schwinn Velodyne (heck, one of the only days I did get outside that winter I got hit by a car and my shoulder hasn’t been right since). Looking back, I was in the best cycling shape I have ever been coming off that training period. Since then, I have used and tested a variety of other trainers ranging from rollers to inexpensive magnetic trainers to Fluid Trainers to the Computrainer. I believe they all are of benefit and are better than 100% outdoor cycling.

Now, I am not suggesting that you do all of your cycling indoor (although I do coach a few athletes who only hit the road when they race). During the winter, I believe it’s a good idea to get out on the road or trail once a week if you possibly can. Most of your cycling, however, is probably best done indoor. The more indoor cycling you do, the more important the type of trainer you use becomes. Trainers come in all shapes and sizes and you might be thinking, as long as I can turn the pedals over and get my heart rate up what’s the difference? With prices of trainers ranging from as lows $80-90 to as high as $25,000 let’s hope they aren’t all the same. Most lower priced trainers use a small roller and some form of resistance (magnetic, fluid, windload or friction). The type of road riding condition that these trainer most closely emulate would be considered “low inertia” – i.e, slower speeds, climbing or riding against a stiff headwind. The higher priced trainers tend to use a larger flywheel and more closely replicate the feel of road riding under “high inertia” conditions – i.e. faster speeds, road racing or time trial. They may also offer the ability to program courses, monitor power output, heart rate, pedal efficiency, and on and on. A few more popular trainers that would be considered “high inertia” trainers include Racermate’s Velotron, Velosport’s Velodyne, CycleOps PT Trainers, Kurt Kinetic Trainers and most “spin” bikes.

Another option for riding indoor that I have always included at some level is rollers. They allow you to work on your coordination, balance and bike handling as they do require some skill and focus to stay upright, but this is easily learned.~ Rollers feel more like riding on the road than a low inertia trainer and they~force you to pedal smoothly. The resistance~offered by rollers can vary with the drum size and with additional resistance units,~which can be of similar types to stationary trainers.

Maybe you want to get your money’s worth out of your gym or YMCA membership and use their stationary or spin bikes. A “Spin” bike is a good choice as it can be adjusted to fit and will feel more like a “real” bike than many other stationary trainers. A drawback of both is that you may be limited to the amount of time you can actually spend on one. What about “Spin classes”? Well, let’s just say it depends on the instructor and how well cooled and ventilated the “classroom” is. The quality of the workout is not measured by the amount of sweat you have accumulated on the floor beneath you while hammering away in a stuffy closed room with no fans blowing to keep you cool.

So, what is the best trainer? That is a loaded question and very difficult to answer. Much depends on your budget (or lack thereof) and how much time you expect to spend cycling indoo. If you expect to spend a LOT of time riding indoor – spend a few more bucks, you won’t regret it. I highly recommend having some way to measure power and many indoor trainers have this feature. If you own a power measuring device like an SRM, Power-Tap or Polar S-710 (now S-720i) (which all have their own set of advantages and disadvantages) you have already spent a few bucks and you might not need, nor be able to afford a trainer that measures power. If you don’t own a power measuring device, you should definitely consider one or at least consider a trainer that has that feature. What is power and why is it important? That’s another article altogether. The bottom line is that cycling indoor doesn’t have to be just a winter or foul weather activity and whichever trainer you get, if used intelligently, will help you see faster bike splits in your upcoming racing season.

Last month we covered preparation for the Half-Ironman. This month we take at look at tapering your training, hopefully leading into a great performance on race day. We say hopefully because taper’s can sometimes be tricky, and are most definitely very personal. What brings you “up” for a great performance might see another athlete show up on the line half comatosed from too much rest, or too fatigued from overdoing it. There is no textbook taper that works for everyone, just as there is no textbook training program. What will help you in perfecting your taper is the ability to know your body, how it is feeling, and how it responds to certain workouts.

This is where keeping a training log proves invaluable! Being able to look back on the 1-4 weeks leading up to your best races and worst races can be very helpful in tailoring the final weeks and bringing you to a peak for the next big event. Firstly though, you’ll have to toss that ego out the door and cue into what your body is telling you, as opposed to what your ego is telling you to do. Or better yet, get a coach who works closely enough with their athlete’s so that in time he/she has a pretty good “feeling” for what the athlete needs and how they will respond.

Now, in order to “taper” you first need to have something to “taper” from. If you have been consistent with your training load over the past 4-8 weeks or more, there is not much you can do over the last 2 weeks to get in “better” shape or fitness. However, there is A LOT you can do to make yourself tired or too fatigued to give 110% on race day. You need to be fully recovered and fresh on the day of your big race BUT at the same time you don’t want to be stale or flat from too much inactivity leading up to the race. Much depends on the length of race that you are peaking for and how long you expect it to take. Those short flat out sprints may be appropriate if you are peaking for a shorter event or a very hilly long event that has a more “anaerobic” component to it. But for most half ironman or ironman events – you need to be as “aerobic” as possible. The final weeks of training should focus primarily on aerobic and lactate threshold training and complete recovery.

Many athletes train long and hard right up to the Wednesday or Thursday of race week, and then wonder why their performance on race day is sub-par. In particular, the second last week before race day is often a heavy one. BIG MISTAKE! Too much in this week doesn’t leave you with enough time to adequately recover for the “big dance”. For many athletes it’s a good idea to lighten the load from 14 to 10 days pre-race. This is a case of taking a rest and recovering sooner, rather than later, leaving you significantly fresher for some quality training (though at a reduced volume) for the weekend before the race.

Be sure that during the final 4-6 days prior to a “peak” event you don’t do any training that is going to deplete you of your carbohydrate stores or make you tired – the training you do should actually “charge you up” and make you feel more energized. Race week typically involves approximately 30% of the normal training volume, and includes some short efforts of 30 seconds to 4 minutes at race PACE or slightly faster (NOT short, flat out sprints as many athletes seem to think they need). The PACE work is just a reminder to the body of what it “feels” like to operate at a faster pace. You are not going to get any fitter in the final week – you just want to be sure you are fully recovered from the workload of the previous six or more weeks, and that you maintain what you have built. But you still want to stay “sharp”, which is where the PACE work comes in. As an example, on the Tuesday of race week you might do a bike session incorporating 3 x 3:00 at half-ironman race pace, with 4:00 easy recovery after each. On the run, perhaps on Wednesday, you might do 5 x 1:00 with 4:00 easy recovery, also at half-ironman pace. Don’t be tempted to do lengthy sets of intervals at this time. These workouts should leave you feeling good at the end, not trashed.

Now in saying this, this is what works for many of our athletes, but it may not work for you. This is where, as mentioned previously, knowing yourself or having a coach who knows you really helps. Often we find that the thick set, heavily muscled athletes respond best to more rest in their taper, while the more sinewy “aerobic animal” needs to keep moving a little more. For some, too much rest can leave them flat come race day, but If you don’t know yourself well enough then definitely err on the side of caution.

Do you feel the best early in the week or when coming off a day or two of complete rest or do you feel the best toward the end of a training week or after a few days of solid training? This can tell you a lot about what method of tapering will work best for you. Either way, at some point during the 2-3 weeks before the race you need to back off and completely recover (this may be 2-3 days or it may be up to 2 weeks depending on the athlete and the volume/intensity of their training).

In regards to nutrition, the last thing you want to do the week before a big race is alter your normal diet significantly. However, from the Tuesday of race week you should start “fueling up”. Take in more carbohydrates throughout the week, particularly on the day two days before the race. As an endurance athlete you can get thoroughly sick and tired of eating all the time, so you may choose to take in these additional calories in the form of glucose polymer, such as Leppin Enduro. Generally, from the Tuesday onwards, add around 100 grams of carbohydrates per day to your normal diet. You want to make sure your muscle glycogen stores are full come race day. Pay close attention to hydration. If you are a coffee drinker, try cutting back your intake this week to improve your sleep and enhance your recovery. There are also foods that you should avoid during the week before a race if possible. During the 1 or 2 days before competition you should avoid shell fish (which are very toxic), raw foods (difficult to digest) and eating meals too late at night. Your digestive system is not very efficient during sleep and we all need our beauty sleep – you want to look GOOD on race day!

There are a few other important details that could be covered here but, hey, we gotta keep #I#some#I# secrets for our athletes. But try implementing some of the above into your taper plan and see if it has you “ready to rock” on race day.

So you’d like to race a Half-Ironman? With everything you read on training these days, I would forgive you for thinking you have to risk your marriage or your job in order to be ready. With a full-time job, wife, kids, mortgage payments, the “more is better” approach just doesn’t cut it. In this article I’ll outline some guidelines that myself and Jeff “the Hammer” Devlin use both in our own training, and in coaching others. This plan is most applicable to the age-group athlete with 11.5-12.5 hours available each week for training, and for the final 8 week period leading into race day. In saying that, it’s also applicable to someone with 20 hours a week available for training. Understand, training is not about doing all that you can do, it’s about doing only what you can absorb.

I feel well qualified to relate to the position most age-group athletes find themselves in, having always had a full-time job throughout my fifteen years of racing. At times I have trained smart, and at other times I have trained like a fool. An extended period of such “foolish” training once gave my health an absolute battering and cost me a few good seasons of racing. My training philosophy has evolved over the years, and it is from my worst experiences that I have learnt the most. Jeff has been a world class, full-time triathlete/duathlete, and presently coaches athletes full-time with a growing family. He can attest to the fact that the real value of “full-time” training is not being able to train more but being able to recover more. Our philosophy is that a good training program should make you feel good, not bad. You want a time efficient training plan, one that gets results, keeps you healthy, and fits into (as opposed to takes over) your lifestyle. Interested? Read on.

We are assuming you all have a reasonable platform of basic endurance training to work from. To get started, you are going to need a heart rate monitor. If you don’t have one, GET ONE! Next, you want to find out your Anaerobic Threshold(AT) heart rate for the bike and run (I find it best to work off perceived exertion in the pool while Jeff prefers to occasionally performing test/time trial efforts). Think of AT as the maximum steady state heart rate and pace that can be maintained for a one hour “time trial” effort by fit athletes. If you have access to a lab that does stress testing and can determine your AT , we highly recommend it. Otherwise, you can record or get your average heart rate during a race or time trial of about one hour, preferably on a flat course. Usually, AT is 15 to 35 beats below maximum heart rate, depending on your fitness level. It is important to know your AT heart rate because it is from this figure that your heart rate training zones are best calculated. It is also likely that your bike and run AT’s will be different, with the run rates generally higher than those for cycling, sometimes up to 10 or more beats.

We are going to offer advice on building your program around key workouts. When you train using the key workout approach, the focus is on being ready for and recovering from these key sessions, as opposed to boasting about high weekly mileage volumes.

For Half-Ironman preparation we advise two key workouts per discipline, per week. One a Tempo/AT session, the other a longer session which includes extended efforts at or just below your goal race pace. The Tempo/AT day is designed to shift your AT upward and provide some specific training at close to Half Ironman race pace, whilst the Distance session does this and more by focusing on enhancement of your aerobic plumbing and ability to utilize fats as a fuel source. If your schedule allows, try and separate these workouts by at least two days.

For the swim, the Tempo/AT set should end up anywhere from 1000-1500m. Break it up into intervals. The less capable you are as a swimmer the more you should focus on shorter intervals such as 50m or 100m. In time, as you are able to maintain your technique for longer periods, you can extend the length of these intervals to 200-400m. A sample set might be 10-15 x 100m on 15 seconds rest between each. Rate of perceived exertion (RPE) should feel like a 14-15 on a scale from 6-20 (6 being very easy, 17 being AT and 20 being a maximal effort). The effort should feel comfortably hard. Warm up and cool down either side of this set. Total distance may be 2000-2400m.
For the endurance/distance swim day, aim for 2200-2700m, depending on your abilities and available time. Warm up easily, then perhaps a set of 4 x 400m on 30 seconds rest at a steady, comfortable effort (RPE 8-11). Keep the effort steady and relaxed, not hard. As an example, my Tempo sets are at a 1:18 (per 100m) pace. So I would swim this set at around 1:27-1:30 pace.

For cycling, the turbo trainer is your best friend when it comes to time-efficient training, and is most useful for Tempo/AT work. In a 1-1.25 hour session build up to a 20-30 minute set at 94-97% of your current AT bike heart rate, either in the form of 2 to 10 minute intervals (30 second to 2 minute recoveries) or a 20-40 minute continuous effort. As an example, with an AT of 162, this would mean a range of 152-158. Be sure to warm up and cool down either side of this set.
The longer weekly ride could build to up to 10% longer than you anticipate being on the bike on race day. Perform the majority of the ride at 75-85% of AT (121-138 based on an AT of 162), with up to 40-60 minutes total within the session at 85-90% (138-146). I like to save the latter heart rate range for the longer climbs. This is higher level aerobic training, and is very important when you are training for longer events. However, don’t be tempted to do the whole ride in this upper end!

For running, a 1 hour run including 20 minutes at 94-97%% of AT heart rate will serve you well as your Tempo/AT session. As per the bike, use either intervals with short rests, or a continuous effort. For the long run, build up to 1 hour 30 minutes to 1 hour 45 minutes. Even if you anticipate being out there longer than this on race day, use this as the upper limit. Trust that with correct pacing and nutritional practices will get you to the finish line in good shape. Run at 75-85% of AT, with up to 30 minutes within the workout at 85-90% of AT (some of this early and some of this later in the workout).

With the two key sessions as outlined as above, you will still need a third session per sport. We believe it is of the utmost importance that this workout doesn’t interfere with the quality of your “key” sessions. Much depends on your powers of recovery. If you lead a hectic lifestyle, work long hours, sleep less than you really should, etc., then don’t underestimate the toll this takes on you. In these circumstances it would make sense to keep the intensity at low aerobic levels (75-85% AT – easy to steady level of effort). Perhaps 2-2.5k of swimming, 1.5 – 1.75 hours of biking, and 50-60 minutes of running. We hesitate to recommend more than this (unless we are coaching you and know your body as well as our own) when you work and “live” full-time. Seriously, though, you are likely to race far better with a lower volume, “tailored” schedule as a result of better health and a balanced
lifestyle than by risking a trip into the depths of fatigue that you can’t get out of before race day.

We think, in general, most athletes train too much and too hard. Many seem to think that, because they have less time to train, then every session must be hard. Others tend to spend most or all of their time training at moderate intensities – a level that doesn’t feel “easy” yet doesn’t feel “hard” either. The problem with training too much at this intensity is that it is too high to teach your body to release and burn fatty acids, and not quite high enough to stimulate improvements in Anaerobic Threshold. Every session needs to have a specific purpose and this means “scaling down” your program to the essentials. What the essentials are for you will depend on your experience level and training history.
Based on the above, perhaps your week could look something like this;

So there you have it. A basic Half-Ironman plan for the working man or woman. Obviously there are many more specifics we could go into, but we know we’ve been cutting into that training time already! Build your program around your lifestyle with a focus on key sessions, and you’re on track to performing at your best. Next month, we’ll take a look at how to taper your training for a peak performance on race day. Until next time, have fun, and TRAIN SMART!

Okay, so you’ve done the training, tapered, and you are ready to race. Or are you? Race day nutrition is so important yet only given a fleeting thought by so many athletes. What you ingest pre, during and post race not only has a profound impact on your race performance, but also your ability to recover from the effort. But it’s so common to see athletes arise on the morning of a race and either eat nothing, eat too few calories, eat too close to race start, eat too much fiber, or other similar mistakes that can effect your race outcome. Then during the race, many people lack a fluid/calorie intake plan and either fall short of or overdo their hydration/energy requirements. Similarly, once the race is over most of us just hang around or hop into the car and drive home without reloading. This article will offer advice on fueling your body for a peak performance, and accelerating your recovery from the effort.

The PRE RACE meal is a necessity for racing at any distances. Your liver glycogen levels are slightly depleted during sleep and you’ll need to top up this tank, as you will your blood sugar levels. Consume this meal at 2-4 hours before race start. Spread this out over 2 hours if possible, and consume the bulk of the calories and/or more solid food closer to 4 hours and more liquid calories closer to 2 hours. It’s a wide range and you should see just how hungry you are – you don’t want to stuff yourself. Any solid food should be easily digestible. The number of calories you need to consume will depend largely on your body weight and your ability to “stomach” them. As a guide, for a range in body weight of 50-80 kgs, an athlete should be looking at taking in 400-1200 calories. The calories should be broken down as 65-70% carbohydrate, 15-20% protein and 10-15% fat. For an intake of 600 calories, this would mean approximately 97-105 grams of Carbs, 22-30 grams of Protein and 15-22 grams of Fat. The carbohydrates should be complex. You don’t want too much fibre, either, unless you are planning a pit stop or 5 on the run course. Some people do best on solid food, whilst others can only stomach liquid calories such as a liquid meal replacement . Personally, we mix up a combination of glucose polymers, protein powder and flaxseed oil and advise our athletes to test this out for themselves. However, one thing IS certain – you have to find out BEFORE race day what works for YOU – liquids, solids, or a combination of the two. Practice different combinations of calories before some of your longer workouts and see how they sit with you.

Nutrition DURING a race should not vary drastically from nutrition during training. In general, you will be racing at higher intensities than during training and burning up more carbohydrate and will therefore need to take in more calories and fluids. There will have more fuel and fluid available (aid stations) than during training sessions, so take advantage of it. You’ll need around 750-1750ml of fluid per hour depending on weight, sweat rates and temperature/humidity. In most triathlon events (even the longest ones) the primary energy source is carbohydrate. In longer events take in about 250-500 calories per hour. We prefer using all liquid calories and possibly some squeezies during the run as opposed to energy bars or solid foods. But everyone is different, and you should experiment during training to find out what works the best for you.

In general, smaller athletes 55 kg or less need about 250-350 calories per hour while larger athletes 80 kg or more may need up to 500 calories per hour. The longer the event the more you will use both fat and protein for fuel along with the carbs so you will benefit from including them in your race nutrition. Faster athletes can often get by on carbs only, but if you are on the course for 5 hours or more then you should consider taking in more than just carbohydrate on the bike. Liquid meals or sports bars with protein and a little fat (probably in the form of medium chain triglycerides) could work well in this case. I would aim for around 10-15% of your calories from protein, or 6-18 grams per hour.

DURING THE RACE:

Swim – no calories (no kidding!). Not even the lake or ocean water! During the first hour of exercise, irrespective of the quantity of carbohydrate consumed, only about 20 grams of carbohydrates are oxidised by the working muscles.

Bike – drink only water or diluted energy drink for the first 15-20 minutes. After that try to take in consistently up to 250-500 calories per hour (again, depending on body size and personal requirements) from a combination of energy drink, gels or energy bars.

Run – if you can carry a bottle from the transition area with sports drink that would be good. You are shooting for up to but probably slightly less calories per hour than on the bike. If you are not sure about the drink and it’s strength/mix on the course then you will probably want to carry your calories in squeezies or a gel flask, and dilute it with water. The other option is 2-3 cups of energy drink every 10-15 minutes (a cup could be anywhere from 30-60 calories).

One of the areas that appears to cause the most problems during a race is HOW MANY CALORIES SHOULD YOU PUT IN YOUR BOTTLES? The optimal range for calorie concentration is between 5-10% with 7% being ideal for most athletes and under most conditions. A 7% concentration is about 200 calories per 700ml. In very warm or hot weather it is best to lean towards the lower side of the range and during cooler temperatures lean toward the higher side of the range. You need to consider everything you will be consuming during the race – energy drinks, bars, gels, Big Mac’s, whatever……. The overall calorie to fluid ratio should bring you to within this concentration range. In other words, the more calories you consume, the more fluid you will need to go with it – otherwise water will need to be taken from your working muscles to attempt to digest and absorb it all – a sure fire recipe for cramps. If you plan on consuming gels and bars then you may want to consider going light on the amount of calories in your bottles. Also keep in mind the recommended total amount of fluid that can be reasonably consumed per hour(750-1750m)l.

Now the race is done, and you kicked some serious freckle. First thing to do is kick back and hook into a brewskie or three, right? WRONG! Put the beer on hold (for now). The first hour after a long race (and training session for that matter) is THE most important time to replace fluid, carbohydrate and protein. The body is in serious need of rehydration and repair at this time so give it what it needs to speed recovery. First, drink around 500-750ml of water. Then you want to consume a RECOVERY BOTTLE that you will have prepared pre race. You want a mix of carbohydrate (60-75g), protein powder (25-35g) and essential fatty acids/flax oil (14g – 1 tablespoon). Depending on the event it could be appropriate to follow up an hour later with another 70-100 grams of carbohydrate. Then, go eat some REAL food. Continue to drink plenty of water over the next 12 hours. We can’t emphasise this enough when it comes to day to day recovery from hard training.

Are we sick of eating/drinking yet? Yes, it can be a chore but if you really want optimum performance then it’s worth the effort.